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Thread: Case suggestions & improvements

  1. #41
    Help me know more. I do not have much knowledge about this.



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  2. #42
    Goods, it makes me understand more.

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  3. #43
    I made an account on these forums just to make this post.

    Do a refresh of the Evolv ITX!

    - Tempered glass panels on both sides. I'd personally rather both transparent and no silk-screen.
    - Full aluminium construction like the ATX and mATX brothers (current ITX has some plastic).
    - Remove the PSU shroud. This is a small case. Having no PSU shroud makes water-cooling easier and improves air flow. I think it looks better too.
    - There's one massive cable grommet in the current ITX version. Please make it normal sized. It looks weird.

    That's about it.
    Last edited by Krakyn; 06-26-2017 at 02:08 AM.

  4. #44
    Just made an account. Please make an mATX version of the P400/S or P300! I really want to get a Phanteks case because of the company's great reputation for quality and service but I can't afford a $130 case in my budget. I also understand that the current market direction is towards RGB and TG but I would buy a non RGB and non TG case if it meant a $20 or $30 price drop. Thanks for having this thread to listen to your fans!

    Edit: Oh and please keep it a tower style and not a cube style. Something more akin to the In Win 301 than the TT Core V21.
    Last edited by Metacomet10; 06-29-2017 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Added an additional request/clarification

  5. #45
    Evolv ATX TG: Bottom behind front would have space for a 140/120mm fan mount for intake. It should intake cool air from bottom through a nylon filter.

    In my case i have mounted a Kraken 62 at the front as intake and the other three 140mm Phantek fans at rear and top, which gives me negative pressure. It seems to me, that an additional intake 140/120mm fan at the bottom would be great supplement to achieve positive pressure within the case.
    Last edited by steelhouse; 07-02-2017 at 04:22 PM.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhouse View Post
    Evolv ATX TG: Bottom behind front would have space for a 140/120mm fan mount for intake. It should intake cool air from bottom through a nylon filter.

    In my case i have mounted a Kraken 62 at the front as intake and the other three 140mm Phantek fans at rear and top, which gives me negative pressure. It seems to me, that an additional intake 140/120mm fan at the bottom would be great supplement to achieve positive pressure within the case.
    If Kraken 62 is front intake, why do you have 1x rear and 2x top exhaust? Why not just have a single rear exhaust?

    I like your idea of modding the bottom by adding another 140mm vent in front of PSU. It would help flow cool air to GPU.
    =i7 980X @ 3.55GHz =PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-147A fans =Crucial Ballistix 3x4GB =GA-X58A-UD5 =ENGTX580 DirectCU II =e quiet! Straight Power E10 500W =Enthoo Evolv w/2x PH-F140XP case intake fans;

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by doyll View Post
    If Kraken 62 is front intake, why do you have 1x rear and 2x top exhaust? Why not just have a single rear exhaust?

    I like your idea of modding the bottom by adding another 140mm vent in front of PSU. It would help flow cool air to GPU.
    Thank you for your answer. regarding your question, why the top fans: I wasnt sure, if only rear would be enough airflow, because the two Kraken fans are only running at around 350 rpm (silent) or around 500 rpm (fixed). But i will try it and leave top fans unused. If there are no top fans running, i suppose i would not need to close the top plate, because there will be no need to press the air through the top vent anyway, wouldnt it?

    I also considered to reverse rear fan as intake for more cold air and leave top fans running as they are now. This would be helping to create positive pressure inside the case.

    I will probably make the mod and add a magnetic nylon filter to bottom. Which way would you recommend to perforate the bottom plate? Should i just drill many holes where the fan will be mounted and which diameter should the holes have? For airflow, it would be probably best just to remove the footprint of the fan (140x140mm) but i am not sure if that hole could be a problem for stability of the case. What do you think would be the most reasonable method?

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhouse View Post
    Thank you for your answer. regarding your question, why the top fans: I wasnt sure, if only rear would be enough airflow, because the two Kraken fans are only running at around 350 rpm (silent) or around 500 rpm (fixed). But i will try it and leave top fans unused. If there are no top fans running, i suppose i would not need to close the top plate, because there will be no need to press the air through the top vent anyway, wouldnt it?

    I also considered to reverse rear fan as intake for more cold air and leave top fans running as they are now. This would be helping to create positive pressure inside the case.

    I will probably make the mod and add a magnetic nylon filter to bottom. Which way would you recommend to perforate the bottom plate? Should i just drill many holes where the fan will be mounted and which diameter should the holes have? For airflow, it would be probably best just to remove the footprint of the fan (140x140mm) but i am not sure if that hole could be a problem for stability of the case. What do you think would be the most reasonable method?
    True, if top fans are not used there is no reason to block any of the openings. Added advantage of this is top vents will flow some air out as intake fans push air in. Keep in mind a case only flow as much air out of case as is flowing in. Air flows the same way water flows. You might find the below link of interest.
    http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread...ull=1#post2563

    I don't think using the back fan as an intake will help.

    When I cut a new vent into a case I remove all metal from area where new fan will be. I usually use Silverstone magnetic mounting filters because the are easy for me to get. DEMCiflex also make good filters. I would need to get my case out and do some checking before I would say how exactly I would do it, but normally panel (bottom in this case) stability is not a problem. Some of us routinely remove bottom and back punched metal grills and either run with no grill or use the 2 or 3 ring round wire grills. This not only lowers airflow resistance and improves airflow, but also lowers noise levels .. less restriction means less turbulence and less noise.
    =i7 980X @ 3.55GHz =PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-147A fans =Crucial Ballistix 3x4GB =GA-X58A-UD5 =ENGTX580 DirectCU II =e quiet! Straight Power E10 500W =Enthoo Evolv w/2x PH-F140XP case intake fans;

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by doyll View Post
    When I cut a new vent into a case I remove all metal from area where new fan will be. I usually use Silverstone magnetic mounting filters because the are easy for me to get. DEMCiflex also make good filters. I would need to get my case out and do some checking before I would say how exactly I would do it, but normally panel (bottom in this case) stability is not a problem. Some of us routinely remove bottom and back punched metal grills and either run with no grill or use the 2 or 3 ring round wire grills. This not only lowers airflow resistance and improves airflow, but also lowers noise levels .. less restriction means less turbulence and less noise.
    I think about a circular hole with 140mm diameter. But i am not sure, which tool i should use. How do you do this usually? And do you remove the computer parts before modding holes in a case?

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhouse View Post
    I think about a circular hole with 140mm diameter. But i am not sure, which tool i should use. How do you do this usually? And do you remove the computer parts before modding holes in a case?
    I have a 140mm cup hole saw. But if I didn't have many tools I would use a jigsaw and the finest blades I could find for it. If bottom flexes any at all, I would sandwich the area for a round 140mm hole with something like 1/4-3/8" plywood screwed or clamped together so jigsaw can be turned to cut the 140mm circle. You could drill the 140m fan mounting holes in panel before cutting and use those holes to screw the plywood from bottom side. I suggest using some thicker wood blocks under the inside plywood so screws have something solid to screw into from bottom. Just be careful the blocks do not stick into the area the jigsaw bladewill be cutting.

    Definitely remove everything electrical from the case. The metal shavings from saw blade could easily short out things if any are left inside of case and get onto the printed circuit boards.
    =i7 980X @ 3.55GHz =PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-147A fans =Crucial Ballistix 3x4GB =GA-X58A-UD5 =ENGTX580 DirectCU II =e quiet! Straight Power E10 500W =Enthoo Evolv w/2x PH-F140XP case intake fans;

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