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Thread: Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass Front Push/Pull

  1. #21
    nice setup, i want to have this someday... but not for now. i dont have much money
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  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Mrsabs View Post
    I used a drill bit that was slightly larger than the holes already in the rails . The pre-drilled holes are tapped for screws so I made my holes larger as the screw needs to pass through the hole cleanly, the larger size holes also gives you a bit of 'wiggle room' when lining up the fans/radiator. If the holes are too small you have zero room for error in getting the screws lined up with the fan/radiator holes. You can start with a smaller drill bit and go a bit larger if you need to which is how I did it.

    The top mounting holes on the fan are screwed into the radiator but obviously not the chassis rail. There are zero vibrations or movement in the fans/radiator combo even at full fan speed as the 6 screws holding the fans/radiator are more than enough to hold them hard against the chassis.

    The bottom 120mm fan that I added is just mounted with double sided tape (no screws at all) and even that does not move or rattle, so 6 screws on the main fan assembly are ample.
    ** UPDATE **

    I did a delidding procedure on i7 6700k and WOW!! Now that made a HUGE difference in OC temps! I dropped 20c at 100% load (depending on tool used). I could get the CPU to thermal throttle very easily using prime95 with my 4.6ghz OC on air before. With the NZXT, I could still get it to throttle, though not quite as easily. After the delid and using liquid ultra thermal interface, the same tests don't go above 77c. More "normal" benchmarks (still 100% load) are around 60c. Honestly, can't believe the difference. As a result, I was able to bump the voltage to 3.65v and run 4.8ghz, though I decided to back it down to 3.2v and keep it at 4.7ghz (I'm able to run stock voltage at 4.6ghz). Totally happy with that and rock solid.

    Next up is getting it even quieter at full load and case fans dialed in with NZXT fan hub once it gets back in stock (waiting a couple weeks now). Have three NB-eLoop fans ready to go once the hub arrives.


    I found these posts very useful and originally was going to go this route as well (drilling additional holes). However, I found another method that's totally solid IMO and requires no drilling or loss of the HDD bays. I've mounted the radiator and fans in the same way as Mrsabs, but instead of drilling holes found that the top set of screws for the bottom fan align with the stock case holes. I used the stock screws from the OEM fans to mount the bottom NZXT fan and radiator to the case. The bottom of the fan is just pressure fit against the case with no screws at the bottom. The top fan is pressure fit in place against the case at its bottom (located near where the rad is screwed in) and I secured it using the OEM Kraken screws and washers at the top -- just the fan into the rad (not secured into the case).

    Even with just two screws in the middle of the radiator securing it to the case it's very secure. So secure I'm not worried about it all. Pulling on it any harder and I'd be afraid of damaging the aluminum rad (stripping out the screws or something). None of the fans move even though they're half held in by pressure and there's no vibration issues at all. My rig doesn't move around once setup, but even if I had to move it I wouldn't worry. In fact, I worried a heck of alot more with the heavy 'Be Quiet' Dark Rock Pro 3 air cooler this setup is replacing and flexing the motherboard. Of course, YMMV, but I think this is much simpler and easier than drilling holes, it just took a few hours to look at it and sort out.

    The only caveat is you'll need to remove the top plate cover that's screwed over the HDD bay area as the bottom of the radiator hangs down into the bay just a few MM. It's not enough to prevent use of the drive bay though as I still have my 3.5" storage drive mounted there with plenty of room. I was also concerned about temps of the HDD bay with no fans blowing in now, but my idle is the same (36c) without the fans. Since heat rises, I think it may have offset having the top plate directly above the drive moved and creating air movement by the bottom radiator fan in that general area? Just a guess, but no temp issues either way.

    I moved the stock fans to the top of the case exhausting out. I think this is a great setup and completely happy with it. It hasn't dramatically lowered my OC temps, but that wasn't my goal which was reducing noise. My prior air cooler delivered solid results, but was pretty loud (by my standards). I now get -5c lower temps at full CPU but also hugely reduced noise. My system at full load now sounds like it did at idle previously and that's using the 'silent' profile. I live in a warm and humid climate, so my ambient temp is always around 25c.

    My next step will be to install the NZXT USB hub (mobo only has 1 USB 2.0 header), NZXT fan controller and three lower RPM fans (probably the Phantek 600RPM models). I believe I can get even quieter at 'normal' loads while maintaining my 4.7ghz i6700K OC. Some like max performance, I like max quiet and performance!

    I hope this helps out others looking to do the same setup. Love this cooler and very happy I made the purchase.
    Last edited by seventeensec; 05-03-2017 at 04:55 PM.

  3. #23

  4. #24
    I came to this site for the first time and asked for advice.

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  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by aof View Post
    I came to this site for the first time and asked for advice.

    genting ผ่านเว็บ
    Ok? Then?...

  6. #26

  7. #27
    Nice to see you here all dear friend!!!


  8. #28
    Mrsabs - THANK YOU SO MUCH for your post - it was EXTREMELY helpful.

    I purchased the ATX TG case and want to install the Coolermaster Masterliquid 280 Rad in a Push/Pull Config and have been tearing my hair out trying to work out how to mount it. Putting it in the front is the best option I think anyways (its more aestheticaly pleasing and balances the case out and I prefer to have it there then on top as it hides my RAM.)

    I did not wish to remove the bottom HDD tray and you have answered my questions exactly on how to do this. I do not mind that the top two screws aren't fixed - the rails are not full length. Do you have a shot of the other side so I can see how the rad ended up fitting in your case?

    Thanks so much for your data!!!!
    Last edited by Nick; 11-09-2017 at 03:12 AM.

  9. #29
    Mrsabs - sorry I did not see this picture before - you have answered all of my questions. Thanks.

    And I agree on all points - mount the entire unit inside the case so that there is a larger void in the front for airflow - plus install a 120 fan in the bottom for my WD HDD, and use the stock phanteks in the top for exhaust.

    I intend to have a full push/pull with the Coolermaster Masterliquid 280 plus 4 Master Fan fans on each side - this will be 77mmm thick but there is heaps of room in the case to still be able to fit a Titan XP as well. Amazing to find someone with the exact same set up and idea - and thanks for making it work and the time you took to explain it to noobs ike me lol.

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